Clos de Vougeot 2015 Domaine Leroy

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Robert Parker (96)

The Domaine Leroy 2015 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a wine for the ages, opening in the glass with a classic bouquet of incense, smoky black fruits, red cherry and pencil shavings. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and firm at the core, with an ample chassis of fine-grained tannins, excellent concentration and a firm, structural finish. Of all the Domaine Leroy 2015s, this—along with the Clos de la Roche—will demand the most extended cellaring.precisely what I find within the radius of a wineglass. And in 2011, it was clear that the wines of Lalou Bize-Leroy seemed to deliver a sensational level of quality that would make most winemakers curl up and weep, asking: “How does she do it?” I had to inquire at the end of the tasting whether they were all matured entirely in new oak, so seamlessly was the wood embroidered into each cuvee. Tasting through the entire range of 23 wines, before zooming down to Domaine d’Auvenay, the high points were scintillating Nuits-St-Georges Village Crus that transcended all my expectations and the sheer consistency of the Grand Crus, perhaps with the exception of the 2011 Latricieres-Chambertin, which I have always found wanting in the past. The Romanee-St-Vivant could be the apotheosis of the vintage, certainly one of the finest that I have tasted from the domaine and even dared “out-finesse” the Richebourg. What amazed me was the otherworldly precision, as if you could pick out each aroma or flavor from the air. Only the Chambolle-Musigny Charmes appeared unruly when compared to its peers, a little too feisty on the nose for my liking. Otherwise, this is just magic in a glass.

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