Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay Emmanuel Houillon 2014 Pierre Overnoy

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Robert Parker (94)

The bottled 2014 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay is a blend of wines aged in barrique, foudre, larger barrels and oak vats. It's an energetic and lively white with a sharper palate and an herbal hint, austere and sharp. Emmanuel Houillon said the warm years are more complicated to vinify and raise, even if they might be easier in the vineyard, and cooler years are more difficult in the vineyard. Today, this is less expressive than the 2015, and the nose is quite closed. It's not a varietal wine and does not express the fruit, but it has a stony quality that dominates the character of the wine.

BOW (8.75)