Merlot Barbera 2009 Amphorae Makura Estate

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Robert Parker (91)

The 2009 Merlot Barbera is mostly Merlot, with the Barbera component at 23%. It was aged for 36 months in French oak barrels (300 to 500-liter; 90% new). Yes, given that level of oak aging, there are some obvious, new-oak artifacts here, that blueberry-vanilla overlay, despite the late release. Sometimes, the wines here can have a one-dimensional feel due to the long oak treatment, particularly when first opened. That said, in most respects this is rather gorgeous and very sexy. Once past that oak blast, the wine is actually on the elegant side--not the most graceful ever, but rather well constructed. It has plenty of fruit, concentration and depth. It seems focused and serious, with a real backbone and some grip on the finish. The tannins are there, but not overly intrusive at this late date. The Barbera (so I assume) also gives this a bit of a wrinkle in flavor profile. I rather liked it; your mileage may differ. On the whole, there is a lot to like here. Just hope the oak gets pulled in with some time. In that regard, I kept this open for another two hours and it started to fade to some extent, allowing the wine's more natural flavors to come through. It should make a nice food match, given the complex medley of flavors that eventually appear on the finish. It was probably my favorite of the trio this issue, although only by a hair.