Tomatin Contrast Bourbon & Sherry Matured Limited release 46% NV

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Serge Valentin (88)

omatin 'Contrast Bourbon Matured' (46%, OB, 5,400 bottles, 2016) Four stars Ha-ha! The labels smartly states the various vintages that have been used, that is to say 1973, 1977, 1988, 1991, 2002 and 2006. A genuine multi-vintage bottling, like J.M do in rhum agricole. I think that would be even better with the proportions, having said that, or we’d always ‘feel’ that there’s much more 2006 than 1973. Or that there are only drops of 1973. But anyway, lets taste it… Colour: straw. Nose: fresh and crystalline, with pears, oranges, and pineapples on a bed of cut grass and a moderate vanillaness. Gooseberries. Love this purity, very well done so far. Mouth: indeed. Rather apples than pears this time, some angelica, more gooseberries, peaches, touches of pineapples again, and just drops of lemon juice. Frankly, this tastes pretty young, but it’s rather immaculate. I cannot not think of some dry chenin blanc from the Loire Valley. Good body, perfect strength. Finish: medium, not exactly zesty, but pure and fresh. Same kinds of fruits, with a grassier signature. Comments: oh this is smart! It’s going to be a must when temperatures rise, in a few weeks. SGP:551 - 87 points.
Tomatin 'Contrast Sherry Matured' (46%, OB, 5,400 bottles, 2016)

Tomatin 'Contrast Sherry Matured' (46%, OB, 5,400 bottles, 2016) Four stars and a half And this is the sherry version. Quite funnily, they’ve used the very same vintages as with the BB version. Colour: gold. Nose: not first fill. It’s very nice, but it hasn’t got the brightness of the bourbon. Having said that it’s quite subtle, with some tobacco and autumn leaves, and rather more overripe apples instead of fresh bright fruits. Like the whiffs of freshly brewed coffee that rise to our nostrils after a few minutes, as well as the obligatory walnuts. It catches up with the lovely bourbon! Mouth: … and overtakes it, thanks to a finer, more complex profile that hasn’t lost any of its fruity brightness. Dates, tobacco, grapefruits, apples, dried pears, dried bananas, a touch of leather, walnut wine… This is very excellent! Finish: medium to long – a little longer than that of the BB – with a perfect tobacco-ish and walnutty profile. Stays very clean. Comments: it’s the story of the tortoise and the hare. The sherry was a little less ‘immediate’, but it won eventually. By a thin margin! Anyway, what a great idea to have done this series! SGP:551 - 88 points.