Banff 1974 Samaroli 35th Anniversary 45% 1974

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Serge Valentin (92)

Sig. Samaroli must have felt nostalgic when he did this bottling, since he added this to the label: ‘Special Old Liqueur Sherry Wood Unblended Malt’. Fun indeed.

Colour: pale white wine. You can’t do more refill than this.

Nose: it’s an austere Banff, sooty and oily, rather very mineral, with an herbal side. A walk in the forest, with whiffs of moss and fern, perhaps a little horseradish, then some sooty old concrete, some iron, cut grass, and a little porridge. Rainwater.

Mouth: amen. It is exceptional in its own Jansenist style. We’d have loved a little more power, but other than that, this is some perfect wine-malt, perhaps a little chenin blanc. We’re talking great Savennières or something, with plenty of sooty things, salted fresh walnuts, and of course this immaculate mustardy side. It’s the most mustardy of them all. Mustard on fresh walnuts, amazing flavours.

Finish: pretty long – in fact it’s gaining power – and with an admirable lemon coming out. I told you, Savennières… It’s even got this flintiness that feels like smoke.

Comments: it’s to be wondered if bottlers should keep using the word ‘sherry’ when it’s obviously third or fourth fill. Not that we shall complain, mind you, this is a great and important whisky, a style that strictly no one is making anymore!