In my experience the early 1990s Ben Nevis could be a little more funky, although, almost everything in this series so far has been uber impressive, so let’s see… Colour: coppery gold. Nose: indeed, this is a rather different profile, although still impressive with these lovely notes of apricot jam, tinned peaches, olive oil, sultanas, daffodils, wildflowers, pollens, carbon paper and leather tobacco pouches. There’s also some nice medical aspects such as gauze, crushed aspirin, ointment and bandages. With water: some darker shades of fruit such as fig and date but also a slightly resinous saltiness and a leathery note too. Some game meats, old toolboxes, metal polish and camphor. Mouth: wonderfully syrupy arrival. Old herbal liqueurs, lightly tarry, bouillon stock, miso, camphor, toasted pistachios, verbena and wormwood. Quite a departure from the 1996s but we’re in the same territory in terms of quality. With water: the texture holds well and the whole becomes more complex and elegant. Extremely herbal, nicely bitter, hints of salted liquorice, jasmine tea, dried mint, pot pourri and some dry earthy notes. Finish: wonderfully long, salty, meaty and still glimmering with a few candied fruits and grassy olive oil notes. Comments: I’m not really sure why Ben Nevis wasn’t picked up by whisky geeks sooner, it’s such a terrific distillate, even when it’s not technically ‘good’ it’s still hugely entertaining. This one however, pulls no punches! Terrific distillate in a perfect cask + time. Another great selection in this lovely series from Signatory.
BOW (90)
Our pal Angus already tried this one for these modest pages, and loved it (WF 91). The problem is, I trust Angus, but you just never know.. Colour: amber. Nose: I see, cigars, teak oil, game, leather, fresh concrete, cigarettes, Grisons meat, cigar boxes… With water: gets ultra-gamy, which some people will find a little challenging. Wild boar pâté. Mouth (neat): ouch, this is marvellous, and rather within natural wine territories. Smoked almonds, bitter oranges, yeasts, smokes, sour citrus, thyme, slivovitz… and perhaps even Marmite. With water: perfect dry white wine. Very dry. Ultra-dry. Finish: getting extreme. Salt, spinach soup, roasted nuts, acidic coffee, more Marmite, balsamic vinegar… Comments: what a fighter again! I guess you could drink this with natto. Now who’ crazy enough to enjoy natto?
