Dalwhinnie Dalwhinnie 25 Years Old Distilled 1987 Bottled 2012 1 Of 5358 bottles 52.1% 1987

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Serge Valentin (89)

Colour: gold.

Nose: what a surprise, we’re extremely close to the old Sestante at first nosing, except that it’s a little lighter as far as ‘beehivy’ notes are concerned and rather more toasted and roasted (chestnuts, peanuts). A notch more vegetal as well (broken branches) as well as a little sulphury again. I wrote 'sulphury' instead of 'gunpowder' or maybe 'coal' (or truffles, gun flints and such) on purpose because after what some writers have been, well, writing, let me remind you that ‘sulphury’ is the official main descriptor, so the main marker, for some distilleries such as Dailuaine and, indeed, Dalwhinnie (whether ex-sherry or not). It is not always a flaw, in some circumstances I think it can even be an asset. We’re not talking rotten egg/H2S here. However, my take is that it remains very okay to be against sulphury whiskies (which might well not be exactly the same thing as sulphured whiskies), just like you may be against lemony whiskies or honeyed whiskies or peaty whiskies or, or, or… But it’s certainly not a flaw as such, as long as it’s not excessive. Granted, what's excessive is up to anyone to decide. With water: oh, a litle more more spent matches and wood smoke, then vanilla fudge, wax and warm croissants. Very nice. A wee meatiness as well. Mouth (neat): firm and rounded at the same time, starting with a little sesame oil, marmalade and again quite a honeyness. Would go on with more roasted things and quite some liquorice wood, until it becomes a little tannic (strong tea). With water: becomes oilier, with more fruitcake and strong honey (chestnut). Swims very well, esp. since the oakiness did not become any bigger. Finish: medium long, all on honey, marmalade and roasted nuts. Grassier aftertaste (green tannins, here they are again). Comments: I like it a lot, only the slight tannicity in the finish will prevent me from going up to 90+.

Words of Whisky (87)