Bunnahabhain 40 Years Old Signatory 30th Anniversary Cask 2587 47.8% 1978

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Serge Valentin (90)

This could be a little perilous…But this is a kind of back game, as our compadre Angus already tried this one in due time. Colour: dark amber. Nose: would you agree there are various kinds of gunpowder? Like, some that would be rather meaty (burnt steak-like), and some that would be closer to tar, fumes, truffles… Well it’s the latter style that’s to be encountered here, with leathers unfolding, bone dry old sweet wine (that digested its sugars), and some perfect broth. Malt extract, roasted chestnuts, burnt caramel, rancio… Was this a genuine ex-solera butt? Mouth: at ease! Chestnut purée, molasses, chestnut honey again (and again), dark beer (strong trappist) and loads of bitter chocolate and coffee. Approved. Finish: long, on marvellous notes of artisan chocolate. These guys are in big trouble with Covid, hope everyone will help them. Even worse, the best chocolates don’t keep as well as the mass-produced ‘stuff’ that you’ll find in supermarkets. Double punishment. Comments: pure liquid chocolate! Signatory, would you please celebrate your 30th Anniversary again?

BOW (90)