Port Ellen 20 Years Old Rare Malts Selection 60.9% 1978

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Serge Valentin (91)

no notes - 91

BOW (91)

Whisky Notes (92)

Nose: sharp as a blade. Plenty of coastal notes, like sea spray, crabs, iodine and beautiful hints of diesel. Light solventy touches. Oysters with lemons, cheesecake frosting and hints of wood polish. Then hints of dripping meat fat, grapefruit juice and unripe pineapple. Not exactly smoky, rather showing a light farmy note and echoes of wet animal fur.

Mouth: massive power. Totally briney, alongside bursts of lemon juice, grapefruits and lime. Seaweed, more brine, with hints of black peppercorns and black tea. Dried herbs. It shows a mineral, racy kind of peat that reminds me of old Caol Ila, more than some of the more medicinal Islay distilleries. Light sourness too – passion fruit? It moves to salted caramel, tarry notes and grease in the end. Frankly spicy too.

Finish: really long, and very saline. Hints of mint, brine and eery smoke.

An absolutely wonderful Port Ellen. In terms of complexity and balance some of the Special Releases go beyond this bottle, but it’s an honour to try such a pure Port Ellen at a relatively young age. Not an easy drinker, but a real experience.