Cuvée Mo Brut Nature 2006 Schlossgut Diel

Avis professionnels

Robert Parker (92)

Disgorged after just over five years on the lees, the Chardonnay- and (majority) Pinot Noir-based Diel 2006 Cuvee Mo Brut Nature – in praise of whose 2004 counterpart I wrote in Issue 187 – is scented as well as flavored with piquantly nutty lentil sprout and yellow split pea allied to a maritime melange of salt, alkali, chalk, and kelp. Combining leesy richness with striking cut and clarity, it also marries herbed chicken stock, lemony citricity, and mirabelle and kirsch distillates in a manner uncannily reminiscent of top-notch Chablis. There is a certain austerity to the finish of this rivetingly-complex cuvee, and I have a sense that what primary juiciness is still retained might not survive a longer stay on the lees. I won’t attempt to speculate as to whether this might hold well or even become more complex over time in bottle, but personally I would prefer to sin on the side of caution and just be happy to have a few recently-disgorged bottles (from a grand total of around 3,000) to open over the next year or two.