Classification | |
Type | Blanc |
Marque | Weingut Keller |
Millésime | 2023 |
Pays | Allemagne |
Région | Rheinhessen |
Raisin | Riesling |
Volume | |
État | Parfait |
Étiquette | Parfait |
Consommable | 2025-2038 |
Stock | 1 |
Vines aged 60 years. Just 20 cm of topsoil over limestone. First vintage with Kirchspiel on the label was 2002. Tank sample.
Initially more restrained than the Von der Fels, but with intense, deeply mined purity of citrus fruit and a touch of just-ripe apricot plus the merest hint of herbs and stony/smoky minerality. Creamy, too, from the long lees ageing, which has clothed the upright backbone in a softer flesh. That stony character is more marked on the palate, as well as a pithy texture that brings another layer to the fruit. Some grip on the finish. Layered, long, captivating finesse without being showy. The flavours go on and on until the wine seems to take up residence in your mouth. Then a lift of freshness on the finish. As the wine warms, just a touch of honey at the very end even though the wine is bone dry. (JH)