Reserve Bin A Chardonnay Adelaide Hills 2020 Penfolds

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Robert Parker (94)

The single-region 2020 Reserve Bin 20A Chardonnay comes almost entirely from Piccadilly this year (but always from the Adelaide Hills). It delivers scents of struck match and lingering campfire smoke, followed by almost peachy-ripe layers of fruit, all backed by vibrant notes of citrus and pineapple. It's medium to full-bodied and almost creamy in texture without being fat or lush, as it's drawn tight around a gentle spine of acid that lingers elegantly on the finish. Most tasters (myself included) wouldn't guess that this was aged in 86% new French oak.

Jancis Robinson (18)

96% from Piccadilly. Eight months in oak (86% new). 100% MLF.
Lean and sleek, but there's loads of green fruit, smoky toast on the finish. Supple, persistent, focused. Lots of grand-cru-style intensity but without the old-fashioned oak or buttery dominance.