Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive 2006 Zind Humbrecht

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Robert Parker (93)

Zind-Humbrecht’s 2006 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive smells headily of nearly over-ripe musk melon, peach, and apricot, then surprises on a dense palate with surprising firmness and an extraordinary, vivid retention of fresh pit fruit and citrus acids that virtually electrify what follows. A confitured marzipan and caramel wave appears, mingling somehow serendipitously with the streams of fresh fruit, while subtle fruit pit bitterness adds counterpoint in a vibrant yet decadently rich finish. This could serve as an unusually versatile, true dessert wine, given its combination of vivid fresh fruit acid with huge (yet not in the least too much) sugar. I was thinking apricot tart, “but how about rhubarb?” suggests Humbrecht. Indeed. It should also be worth cellaring for 15-20 years.

Winespectator (93)

A rich and creamy late-harvest wine, with pretty layers of quince paste, apricot jam, exotic spice and honey. Juicy acidity frames this intense white, and a pleasant smoky thread lingers on the finish.