Ardbeg 17 Years Old Vintage 40% NV

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Serge Valentin (87)

I remember it was a hugely popular bottling for many years.

Colour: gold.

Nose: It’s said that these early 17 batches used proportions of unpeated ‘Kildalton’ Ardbeg made in 1980. When combined with the rather measly bottling strength you can see the ‘lightening’ effect of this fusion. This one opens all on leafy tobacco, bonfire smoke, a distant tar bucket, pitch, sea water, some light antiseptic notes and gauze. Easy to see how this sort of profile was so seductive. Goes on with hints of sandalwood, crushed seashells and squid ink.

Mouth: drier than I remember, and surprisingly salty. Lots of miso, soy sauce and wood ash. Some dried mixed herbs, anchovies, lemon juice on oysters, black pepper and some pleasingly straightforward peat. Smoked teas, beach sand, canvas and a little brine and medicine.

Finish: medium. All on lemon infused olive oil, sea salt, white pepper, tar and herbal extracts.

Comments: It’s the easiness of the whole thing that strikes most. No wonder this was such a runaway success - you could quaff litres of the stuff! Not the greatest Ardbeg, I always preferred the 10, but deservedly a classic bottling I’d say. Although, I think the earlier batches were better than the later ones - isn’t that so often the case?

BOW (88)