Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2010 Weingut Keller

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Robert Parker (91)

The Keller 2010 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs delivers zesty fresh lemon and milled grain on the nose as well as on a firm, overtly chalk-dusted palate for a personality more than a little reminiscent of a high-acid (and indeed, high-strung!) white Burgundy. A welcome, saliva-inducing sense of salinity emerges in a glowingly persistent finish, with piquancy of peach kernel and almond lending some counterpoint. This understated, relatively austere but (at just 12.2% alcohol) buoyant and intense Riesling should be worth following for at least the next half dozen years, though it will have to prove to me that it can become more friendly than formidable. There are, incidentally, a mere 500 liters, the smallest lot of Grosses Gewachs in this collection.

BOW (8.50)