Pinot Noir la Bauge Au Dessus 2017 Au Bon Climat

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Light in the glass, this bottling—a reference to Burgundian parties—starts with polished aromas of strawberry and bay leaf, yet with tons of dirt and even leather scents as well. The palate shows a touch of aging, with dried cherry and charcuterie flavors, as the structure pops even more on the finish. Matt Kettmann