Volnay Clos des Ducs 1992 Marquis d'Angerville

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Burghound (91)

ans of Clos des Ducs have long know that M. d'Angerville rarely misses, even in so-called off vintages and the 92 is a prime example (82 is another). Softly fragrant secondary aromas soar from the glass offering scents of dried rose petals, chalk and minerals. While the 92 is not nearly as tightly focused as many of the best wines in the group, it is a wonderfully precise wine in the context of the vintage. On the palate the 92 leans more toward black fruit and damp earth flavors rather than intense minerality. My view is that it's the fine fruit-acid balance that has permitted this to age as well as it has when many other 92s, even grands crus, have either already seen their best days or are now peaking. This is a stunningly good effort for an otherwise barely average vintage and it still needs several years.