Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2010 Hirtzberger

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Robert Parker (94)

The Hirtzberger 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl possesses a combination of creaminess and lift, almost honeyed richness (even this year, in Honivogl there was some botrytis) with refreshment that as so often really set this bottling apart from its siblings. The 14.5% alcohol is evident solely as glycerin-enhancement and satisfying amplitude. Winter pear, raw hazelnut, beetroot, and green bean are suffused with stone and salt and wreathed in subtle, bittersweet floral perfume. This long-finishing beauty ought to be worth chasing for 15 or more years.