Montrachet 1996 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard

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Winespectator (93)

Intense and compacted, hard to judge because it's closed and so woody, but offering layers of exotic Oriental spices and toasted oak, with a floral, violet and licorice character. Concentration is impressive in this full-bodied, very long wine, which almost burns the palate from all that intensity, especially on the hot-fuse kind of finish. Best after 2009.