Being released in magnum, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #23 is showing beautifully, mingling aromas of peach, pear, fresh pastry, citrus oil, buttered toast and white flowers. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's elegantly gourmand, with fabulous depth and a long, expansive finish. This is a blend based on 2006, complemented by 2004 and 2002. The volume and texture characteristic of the 2006 and 2002 vintages take the lead here, with the 2004 bringing supplemental aromatic complexity. One of the more demonstrative recent renditions of Grand Siècle, this is a fabulous choice for drinking over the next decade or two.
James Suckling (99)
Dried lemons, salted almonds, oyster shells, croissants, iodine, baked apples, spices and some ginger notes. White pepper, too. Vibrant and fresh, with a distinct saline edge. I like the subtle spice character. So much subtle power and tension. 58% chardonnay and 42% pinot noir, from 2006, 2004 and 2002. 14 years on the lees, three or four more than the normal bottle release. Only available in magnum.
Jancis Robinson (18.50)
JR: Deep straw colour but still with amazing tension on the palate. This is explosive and minerally on the nose and definitely with less obvious acidity than the Grand Siècle No 25 in bottle at this point. In fact, it's almost warm and round! Definitely creamy-textured with strong lemon-syllabub (lemon-cream) notes. Very much part of the Grand Siècle family with just a lightly bitter note on the end. Maturing very nicely.
