Saumur Champigny 2009 Clos Rougeard

Avis professionnels

Robert Parker (92)

Tasted from multiple barrels (largely used Bordeaux First Growth and new handiwork from a local tonnelier), the materials for Clos Rougeard’s basic 2009 Saumur-Champigny – from parcels on relatively clay-rich soil – were gassy from recent completion of malo but a wonderful combination of fresh, tart-edged blackberry and elderberry; tobacco-, peat- and black tea-like smokiness; along with chalk and iodine made for an intensely aromatic, palate-staining show that finished with vibrant interaction of meats, juicy berries, and minerals. This combines verve and brightness with seamless richness and is apt to make for a wine that will demand at least a couple of years in bottle and be worth following for 6-8. The portion in new Loire barrels incidentally – and employing any new wood on this cuvee represents an experiment prompted by the vintage – was nearly black, sweetly ripe, but very firm in feel, and while seemingly full of pent-up energy, was surprisingly no more evolved than the wine from older barriques.