Pouilly Fume Pur Sang 2008 Didier Dagueneau

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Robert Parker (91)

The Dagueneau 2008 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Pur Sang – ironically, given its name – is slightly less pure (or at least, less single-minded) than the vintage’s “regular” bottling. But this offers more than compensatory complexity and user-friendly richness. Sage, white grapefruit, lime zest, quince, and white currant haunt the nose and palate, with pungent herbal and zest impingements taking precedence over mineral manifestations, which are (as yet at least) subtle. There is a generosity of fruit here that sets up a lovely interaction with mouth-watering citrus, and for all of its density a wonderful levity. This should be fascinating to follow over the next 5-7 years.