Clairettes 2021 Domaine Ferrando

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BOW (8)

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

Not yet bottled, the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Spéciale Vieilles Clairettes is a tiny production cuvée based on old vine Clairette brought up in demi-muids. Brilliant aromatics of honeyed peach, ripe pineapple, flower oil, spice, and toasted brioche give way to a medium to full-bodied, layered, textured, concentrated white with rock-solid acidity, a pure, layered mouthfeel, and a great finish. This certainly ranks with the finest in the appellation, and I'd be thrilled with bottles in the cellar. It should benefit from a year of bottle age and drink well for 5-7 years, if not a decade, then have an interesting evolution beyond that. It has more than a passing resemblance to Grand Cru white Burgundy.