Chablis Grand Cru les Clos 2007 Fevre, William

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Robert Parker (94)

The Fevre 2007 Chablis Les Clos perpetuates this collection’s theme of improbably mineral-like scents and tastes, emphasizing the pungent iodine aspect of crustaceans and sheer crushed stone. For all of its implacable underlying density – at sea level, as it were – this displays succulence along with a more dynamic exchange of citrus, spice, and mineral than in most exemplars of this great site in this vintage. There is a certain severity to the almost indelible, memorable meld of iodine, chalk, spice, and citrus oil that constitute this wine’s finish, but it needs several years in bottle and should be worth following for at least a decade thereafter.