Charmes Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2006 Domaine Denis Bachelet

Avis professionnels

Robert Parker (94)

Pre-selection and rigorous sorting appear to have eliminated any negative impact of hail in Bachelet's 2006 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, but with the result that this virtually always intense and well-structured wine from 80 year old vines is even more so than usual. Bitter-sweet herbal, tarry, and almost liqueur-like dark berry concentrates (cassis and black raspberry) – along with low-toned roast meatiness – inform a seamless palate, softer to the touch and with a more restrained impression of acidity than the old vines village Gevrey, yet still plenty of vivacious primary fruit juiciness. Hints of sealing wax and inner-mouth perfume of peony, heliotrope, and rose add intrigue and allure. Resin, iodine, and wet stone convey a sense of depth in the lingering finish, and speaking of "lingering," the empty glass smells so sweetly fruited and floral as well as intriguingly mineral that its perfume alone will seem worth the price of admission. "I was really concerned to retain acidity here," comments Bachelet, who professes to be less than completely happy with some of his wines from the ripest vintages. "I'm looking for a wine with vivacity and equilibrium," he adds, "not a California style." He certainly got a beauty, and you would be well advised to give any bottles 3-4 years rest before following for another half dozen or more.