Charmes Chambertin 2006 Dugat-Py

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Robert Parker (94)

Bernard Dugat relates that his 2006 Charmes-Chambertin – constituting one-third Mazoyeres, and the rest vines near the Morey line – largely escaped hail. A sweet concentrate of black cherry mingles with game and peat. Firmness of tannin combined with notes chalky and charred notes make for a relatively spare overall impression, considering the initially sweet fruit impression. Heliotrope and vanilla scents waft throughout, adding allure. The balance between density and buoyancy here is uncanny and the wine's sheer length prodigious, although this is embryonic compared with most of its stable mates. Be prepared to give it 3-4 years in bottle before a clearer picture of its full potential emerges, although it will certainly last well for more than a decade. When one returns to it after the more powerful Mazoyeres, this Charmes' incipient charms become more evident.