Hermitage La Sizeranne 2000 Chapoutier

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Robert Parker (89)

The 2000 Ermitage La Sizeranne (2,500 cases) exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with an elegant nose of ink, crushed minerals, black currants, and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, dense, and concentrated, with lovely purity, moderate tannin, and a long finish, it is an excellent, possibly outstanding effort that requires another 2-3 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2016.

These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.

Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.

Winespectator (94)

Graceful, classy, modern Hermitage. Toasted oak and milk chocolate complements the ripe fruit. Sweet tannins give this medium-bodied red a soft edge. Long, balanced, satiny finish--but the intense aftertaste suggests much youthful staying power, so cellar for a few years.

BOW (7.75)