Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques 2006 Domaine Fourrier

Avis professionnels

Robert Parker (95)

Predictably, Fourrier's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques is in another class from his other premier crus of the vintage, or indeed from most wines of its vintage regardless of classification. (For some salient details about Fourrier's share of this great site, consult issue 170.) A perfume-like, profuse and variegated bouquet of red raspberry, maraschino, cinnamon, marigold, and rose leads to a silken-textured though subtly-tannic palate with smoked meat and saline undertones. This finishes with both a kaleidoscopic dynamic of floral, fruit, animal and mineral elements and a sheer length that spell "grand cru" in all but the INAO's official language. The saline savor, persistence of fresh fruit, and tactile cinnamon and ginger impingements just keep drawing down my reserves of saliva. Here is concentration with finesse and an uncanny sense of lift, as well as the proverbial velvet glove over tightly-woven chain mail. Give it at least 4-5 years in your cellar and then anticipate another 8-10 of glorious fascination. A lucky few will be able to witness when (or whether) the 2005 – superb as it, too, is – manages to overtake this.

Jancis Robinson (19)

Darkly sweet fruit yet still has lifted perfume, and a touch of spice. Subtle, inviting. Dryly smooth. Long, very good but not cheap.

BOW (8.75)