Chevalier Montrachet 2007 Domaine Henri Boillot

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Robert Parker (97)

The 2007 Chevalier-Montrachet – from 50 year old vines – certainly reflects Boillot's claim that "this is the best terroir there is for white Burgundy." The floral and musk oil perfume that has characterized this wine in past is almost overwhelmingly heady in the present instance. Decadent lily and narcissus mingle with white peach, quince, pungent green tea, candle wick, sea breeze and chalk dust in a manner that also calls to mind great Vouvray. This hits the palate like an electric shock, setting up a vibratory intensity of mineral, floral, nut oil, and fruit interchange that runs through a matrix so rich in texture it is satiny and almost custardy. The seemingly paradoxical degree to which density and levity, richness and refreshment are combined here is spellbinding. I would anticipate 12-15 years of magnificence for any who are wealthy and lucky enough to latch on to some.